Young Homegrown Talent Breathing Vibrant Spirit into the Island's Food Scene
Against the backdrop of its striking, jagged mountain vista, meandering roads and constantly shifting weather, the Isle of Skye has traditionally attracted adventure seekers. During the past ten years, however, the largest island in the Inner Hebrides has been drawing visitors for different motivations – its dynamic food and drink scene. Leading the way are up-and-coming Sgitheanach (local residents) with a international perspective but a dedication to local, sustainable ingredients. It’s also the result of an active community determined to create good, all-season jobs that encourage young people on the island.
A Passion for Local Produce
One local chef is a native of the island, and he’s fervently focused on featuring the island’s larder on his menus. “When visitors arrive on Skye I want them to appreciate the landscape, but also the superiority of our produce,” he says. “The local seafood including mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are second to none.” Montgomery is mindful of the past: “It means everything to me to use the same products as my forebears. My grandfather was a fisherman who caught lobster and we’re experiencing shellfish from the exact same sea lochs, with the same respect for ingredients.”
The chef's A Taste of Skye menu lists the mileage his produce has travelled. Visitors can sample fat scallops harvested manually in a nearby sea loch (no distance), and trapped in creels lobster from a nearby town (a short distance) with produce, gathered seasonings and culinary blooms from the kitchen garden and beach (zero miles). That connection to local bounty and suppliers is essential. “A short while ago I accompanied a young chef out with a scallop diver so he could appreciate what they do. We opened scallops directly from the sea and ate them raw with a dash of citrus. ‘This is the finest scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. That’s what we want to offer to the restaurant.”
Culinary Ambassadors
Driving in a southerly direction, in the majesty of the towering Cuillin mountains, an additional food representative for Skye, a passionate local chef, operates a bustling café. This year Coghill represented Scotland at a prestigious international culinary festival, serving shellfish buns with whisky butter, and innovative local dishes. She initially launched her café in a different city. Returning home to Skye during the pandemic, a short-term residencies proved there was a demand here too.
During a meal featuring a specialty drink and mouthwatering trout cured with blood orange, Coghill explains: “It was an achievement that I established elsewhere, but I was unable to accomplish what I can do here. Getting local goods was a significant effort, but here the seafood come straight from the sea to my kitchen. My creel fisherman only speaks to me in the native language.” Her affection for Skye’s offerings, community and scenery is apparent across her colourful, innovative dishes, all infused with homegrown elements, with a twist of local culture. “The link to the island's heritage and dialect is deeply meaningful,” she says. Patrons can use little lesson cards on the tables to learn a basic terms while they eat.
Many of us worked elsewhere. We’d see the goods be delivered miles from where it was caught, and it’s nowhere near the same quality
Innovation and Tradition
Long-running culinary spots are not resting on their laurels. A luxury lodge run by a prominent islander in her family’s ancestral home has long been a foodie destination. The family matriarch publishes well-loved books on Scottish cookery.
The kitchen regularly introduces new ideas, with a dynamic young team under the guidance of an talented kitchen leader. When they’re away from the stoves the chefs nurture culinary plants in the hotel growing space, and collect for edible weeds in the gardens and sea herbs like sea aster and beach plants from the water's edge of a local sea inlet. In the harvest season they track animal paths to find mushrooms in the woods.
Visitors can feast on island-harvested shellfish, leafy vegetables and legumes in a delicious dashi; premium white fish with Scottish asparagus, and house-smoked lobster. The hotel’s outdoor guide accompanies visitors for experiences including foraging and fishing. “There is significant demand for immersive activities from our guests,” says the establishment's owner. “People want to come and deeply experience the island and the terrain.”
Supporting the Community
The distilling sector is also contributing to keep the younger generation on Skye, in employment that last beyond the summer period. An distillery leader at a regional spirits maker shares: “The fish farm was a big employer in the past, but now many roles are handled by machines. Real estate values have risen so much it’s challenging for young people to stay. The spirits sector has become a really important employer.”
“Opportunities in distilling, training provided” was the advertisement that a young island resident saw in her community newspaper, leading to a position at the distillery. “I just took a punt,” she says, “I never thought I’d get a distillery position, but it was a long-held aspiration.” The employee had an curiosity about whisky, but no prior experience. “Having the opportunity to learn on the job and take online courses was transformative.” Currently she is a senior distiller, assisting in teaching apprentices, and has recently created her personal blend using a unique grain, which is maturing in barrels during the visit. In other distilleries, that’s an privilege usually granted to seasoned veterans. The visitor centre and cafe provide jobs for a significant number from around the local peninsula. “We become part of the community because we welcomed the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital